December 21 is celebrated as World Saree Day. Saree, a traditional Indian outfit that has undergone changes in the manner it is draped, is now loved the world over also.
Gujarat’s Patola, Bandhani and Gharchola are also most sought after.
Today we share details about these three types of sarees.
Patola
Patola, a traditional handwoven silk fabric, hails from Gujarat, particularly from the town of Patan. Known for its intricate patterns, vibrant colours, and exceptional craftsmanship, Patola sarees and textiles are prized for their rich heritage and luxurious appeal.
Patola weaving dates back to the 11th century and was patronised by the Solanki dynasty in Gujarat. Initially, it was worn by royal and aristocratic families, symbolising opulence and status. The craft was traditionally practised by the Salvi community, who migrated from Maharashtra and Karnataka to Gujarat, bringing with them their unique weaving techniques.
Patola is renowned for its double ikat weaving technique, which is one of the most complex forms of textile production globally. In double ikat, both the warp (longitudinal threads) and the weft (horizontal threads) are tie-dyed with precision before weaving.
The weaving is done entirely by hand, with a single saree often taking months to complete due to the painstaking attention to detail. The end result is a reversible fabric, where the pattern looks identical on both sides.
- Designs and Patterns: Patola sarees feature geometric designs, floral motifs, and traditional symbols like elephants, parrots, and peacocks. Popular patterns include the “nari kunjar” (women and elephants), “pan bhat” (leaf designs), and “navratna” (nine gems).
- Colours: Natural dyes derived from plants, flowers, and minerals are used, ensuring vibrant and lasting hues.
- Durability: Patola fabrics are known for their longevity, with the colours and texture remaining intact for generations.
There are primarily two types of Patola:
- Rajkot Patola: Features single ikat weaving, where only the weft is tie-dyed.
- Patan Patola: Utilises the double ikat technique and is considered more intricate and luxurious.
Patola sarees hold a revered place in Indian culture. They are often worn during weddings, religious ceremonies, and festivals. In Gujarat, Patola sarees are part of a bride’s trousseau, symbolising auspiciousness and prosperity.
Patola has been granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, recognising its unique heritage and craftsmanship.
Bandhani
Bandhani, also known as Bandhej, is a centuries-old textile art form originating in India, particularly in the western states of Gujarat, Rajasthan, and parts of Uttar Pradesh. In Gurjarat traditional Bandhani sarees can be found in various regions of Gujarat, including Bhuj, Anjar, Mandvi, Rajkot, and Jamnagar.
The name “Bandhani” is derived from the Sanskrit word bandh, meaning “to tie,” which aptly describes the process of creating intricate patterns on fabric through a tie-dye technique. This traditional craft is closely associated with Indian cultural and religious rituals, often used in wedding attire and festive clothing.
The Bandhani process involves tying small portions of fabric with thread to create patterns, which resist dye penetration. These tied sections form intricate motifs once the cloth is dyed and untied. The patterns range from simple dots to elaborate designs, including flowers, waves, and geometric shapes. Artisans use cotton, silk, or georgette fabrics, and the dyes employed are often natural, derived from plants and minerals.
The tying process, known as bhandej, requires immense precision and skill, with each knot forming a resist point for the dye. The fabric is then immersed in a dye bath, often starting with lighter colours and progressing to darker shades. Multiple dyeing and tying stages may be involved to achieve multicoloured designs.
Bandhani designs vary widely and are often specific to the region or community. Common patterns include:
- Chokidal: Square motifs.
- Leheriya: Wave-like patterns.
- Phetiya: Dots arranged in clusters.
- Mothda: Diagonal stripes.
It is believed that the Bandhani technique originated with the Khatri community in India and can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilisation around 4000 BC.
Gharcholas
The gharchola is a traditional form of Indian textile art, particularly significant in Gujarat and parts of Rajasthan. Known for its intricate weaving, vibrant colours, and cultural importance, the gharchola is often associated with auspicious occasions, especially weddings. Its name is derived from the Gujarati words ghar (home) and chola (robe or cloth), symbolising its role in household and marital traditions. Gujarati gharchola saris are traditionally worn on occasions such as weddings in the Hindu and Jain communities.
The gharchola is typically a silk or cotton saree or dupatta, adorned with rich zari (gold or silver thread) work and tie-dye techniques. The most distinctive feature of a gharchola is its grid-like pattern, created using zari or resham threads, which forms small squares or rectangles. Each square is further embellished with intricate designs such as flowers, peacocks, elephants, and other auspicious symbols.
The motifs on the gharchola also carry symbolic meanings. For instance:
- Elephants signify power and good fortune.
- Peacocks represent beauty and elegance.
- Flowers denote prosperity and happiness.
On Nov 29, Govt of India (GoI) granted the geographical indication (GI) tag for the gharchola. In recent years, Gujarat received 27 GI tags, of which 23 are in the handicrafts sector alone. The GI recognition for gharchola demonstrates Gujarat’s commitment to guarding its rich artistic heritage.
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